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We met Roberto Cantori in the winter of 2019 at his vineyard in the hills of Apiro. It took us some time to get there. Fattoria Nannì is a hidden gem off a winding country dirt road. Roberto is charming, full of passion and energy, and calm. This guy makes the finest Verdicchio we have ever had! However, before we go there, let us chat about the history of his lands.

The vineyard is in Arsicci (Apiro, Macerata), in the heart of the Marche region and not so far up the hill from where Roberto grew up and calls' home.' Apiro is in the rolling foothills of the Apennine—ancient hills that have fount over kings and religious domination, lands of nobles worked by peasants. The vineyards are in a perfect micro-climate, much higher than most Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi DOC vineyards. Across the valley is Monte San Vicino, a beacon in these hills. The land belonged to a notorious rebel who found this gem of land, planted Verdicchio, and cared for it organically back in the 1960s. People were in disbelief, thinking his location would be far from anything real. He was a man before his time; when others went left, he went right; when others planted to the east, he planted north - with total understanding and respect for the microclimate. Roberto grew up hearing the stories. When the moon aligned, he bought the land, and in honor, he continued to grow only Verdicchio, only in tune with the nature that assisted him. Production is at 4,000 bottles (2018), though he has room to grow.

2019 is Roberto Cantori's third harvest of the old vine Verdicchio. His dad was the town Butcher with his parents' assistance, and his mother has a hair salon (which makes sense; the kid has great hair). He bought lands, built a winery, and is now building Fattoria Nanni's reputation for the best Verdicchio, all while increasing the understanding of what you can really do in the hills of the Marche. This guy is as golden as his wine

Who:
Roberto Cantori

Where:
Papiro,Macerata • Marche - Italy

Founded: 2016

Land:
6 hectares, 450 meters above sea level

Grapes: Verdicchio

Appellation:
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi doc

Viticulture: Organic

Annual Production:



About the Verdicchio dei Casteli di Jesi DOC:

History: Established as a DOC in 1968; Riserva became the Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG in 2010
Vineyard Area: 1,820 ha / 4,495 acres (2017)
Production: 128,900 hl / 1,433,000 cases (2018)
Principal White Grape Varieties: Verdicchio

Styles and Wine Composition:

  • Bianco (Wh): Minimum 85% Verdicchio + OAWG

  • Superiore (Classico)


Significant Production Rules:

  • Minimum alcohol level: 11.5% for Bianco;
    12.0% for Classico Superiore


Fattoria Nanni | ‘Origini’

Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi DOC

The vineyards are in Arsicci, near Apiro, Macerata, in one of the highest and quite arguably the best areas for the production of Verdicchio.

Designation: Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi DOC
Grape Types: Verdicchio 100%
Vineyards: Vines over 50 years old, located at an altitude of 450 meters on calcareous soils
Vinification: Alcoholic fermentation in steel
Aging: Some months in steel
Alcohol content: 12.5%

The first wine Cantori produced is named' Malachi’, a local geological feature composed of sand that was once under the ocean and originated from the erosion of Monte San Vicino.

The juice ferments for 20 days at a temperature between 16 and 18 degrees. The lees are stirred twice weekly during the first six months and then once every two days, creating toasty and nutty aromas.

After being handpicked, the grapes are kept at 5 degrees Celsius overnight. Once pressed with the whole cluster, the cold juice goes to stainless steel tanks, where it ferments from its natural yeasts. After fermentation, the lees are stirred occasionally for a month.The fruits are exquisite; in the bottle is an enchanting play between the harsh soil and the freshness of the grape. The nose is an alluring fruit and floral bouquet with impressions of wisteria, citrus, and bitter almonds. In the mouth, it exposes an energetic friskiness of texture, with salty sea shells and a long hallway with a finish.

 
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Fattoria Nanni | ‘Arsicci’

Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi DOC

The little brother of Origini

Designation: Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi DOG
Grape Types: Verdicchio 100%
Vineyards: 5+ year old vineyards with a bit of 50 years old, located at an altitude of 300 -450 meters on calcareous soils
Vinification: Alcoholic fermentation in steel
Aging: A month or 2 in steel
Alcohol content: 12.5%

The wine is named after the Contrada in which the estate is located, which means ‘dry’. The label shows the window of the house belonging to Giovanni Piersigilli (‘Nannì’), who inspired Roberto to create his winery.

After being handpicked, the grapes are kept at 5 degrees Celsius overnight. Once pressed with the whole cluster, the cold juice goes to stainless steel tanks, where it ferments from its natural yeasts. After fermentation, the lees are stirred occasionally for a month.

Arsicci is an ‘easier’ version of Origini, with flavors a bit softer and less complex, though the quality and tastiness are still there. Made from a combination of newer plantings and 50-year-old plants, this wine is perfect for everyday enjoyment.

 
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https://www.fattoriananni.it/

 
 

 

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